Nick Lander is one of the most respected names in the world of food, hospitality, and restaurant culture. Best known as the long-standing restaurant columnist for the Financial Times and as the former owner of the iconic Soho restaurant L’Escargot, he has spent decades shaping how diners, chefs, and restaurateurs view the art of hospitality. His career spans from hands-on restaurant management to thoughtful food journalism and authorship, making him a unique voice in the culinary landscape.
Early Life and Entry into Restaurants
Nick Lander’s career in hospitality began not with the pen but with the kitchen and the dining room. His natural interest in people, service, and culture led him to explore the restaurant world at a time when London was emerging as a global food capital.
In the late 1970s and early 1980s, restaurants in Britain were beginning to shed the image of stiff, formal dining and embrace more cosmopolitan, accessible approaches. Lander spotted an opportunity to create a restaurant that combined sophistication with warmth, ultimately leading him to establish L’Escargot.
L’Escargot: An Icon of Soho
Founded in the 1920s but revitalised under Nick Lander’s stewardship in the 1980s, L’Escargot became one of London’s most celebrated French restaurants. Located in Greek Street, Soho, it drew in an eclectic mix of artists, actors, financiers, and politicians.
Under his ownership, the restaurant combined Parisian elegance with a very London sense of vibrancy. It became famous not only for its fine French cooking but also for being a gathering place for lively conversation and creative exchange.
Lander’s management style was hands-on yet strategic. He knew the importance of atmosphere, staff training, and consistency. By understanding what made diners feel valued, he built L’Escargot into a must-visit destination. The restaurant’s success cemented his reputation as someone who understood not only food but the broader psychology of hospitality.
Transition from Restaurateur to Writer
After years of running L’Escargot, Nick Lander transitioned into writing. This shift was not accidental; his keen observational skills and ability to articulate the nuances of the dining experience made him a natural food journalist.
He joined the Financial Times as a restaurant columnist, where his “Restaurant Insider” pieces quickly gained attention. Unlike traditional restaurant critics who focused purely on flavour and presentation, Lander analysed the business, strategy, and culture behind each establishment. His writing appealed not just to diners but also to restaurateurs, investors, and anyone interested in the mechanics of running a successful restaurant.
The Art of the Restaurateur
In 2012, Nick Lander published The Art of the Restaurateur. The book was a landmark in food literature, offering readers a behind-the-scenes look at some of the world’s most innovative and successful restaurateurs.
Through interviews and case studies, he explored the personalities and philosophies that drive the industry. Rather than focusing solely on celebrity chefs, Lander gave attention to the restaurateurs—the people who shape the vision, manage the teams, and create the environments where great food is enjoyed.
The book was widely praised for its depth and storytelling. It became a resource not only for food lovers but also for hospitality students and entrepreneurs looking to understand what makes restaurants thrive.
On the Menu: A Study of Culinary Storytelling
Four years later, in 2016, Nick Lander published On the Menu. This book turned its focus to an often overlooked but crucial part of restaurant culture: the menu itself.
Menus, as Lander argued, are not just lists of dishes but documents of history, culture, and identity. They reflect trends, showcase creativity, and reveal how restaurants position themselves. By analysing menus from around the world, he demonstrated how design, wording, and pricing communicate a restaurant’s character.
The book combined historical anecdotes with modern insights, offering a unique way of understanding restaurants through the documents they present to their guests.
Writing for the Financial Times
Nick Lander’s long career at the Financial Times has seen him cover dining from multiple perspectives. His articles go beyond simple reviews. They address issues such as sustainability, the economics of running restaurants, and the globalisation of food culture.
He has reported on everything from Michelin-starred establishments to humble street food stalls, always with the same sharp eye for detail. His writing is accessible yet sophisticated, balancing journalistic rigour with human storytelling.
Through his columns, he has influenced not only how readers choose where to dine but also how restaurateurs approach their craft. His platform has given him a voice that resonates both in Britain and abroad.
Partnership with Jancis Robinson
Nick Lander is married to Jancis Robinson, one of the world’s foremost wine writers and Masters of Wine. Together, they form a powerhouse couple in the world of gastronomy and oenology.
While Robinson focuses on wine, Lander’s expertise lies in restaurants. Their combined knowledge covers the complete dining experience. This partnership has given them unique insights into how food and wine interact culturally and commercially. It also reflects the shared dedication to detail, research, and storytelling that defines both of their careers.
Nick Lander’s Influence on Hospitality
Nick Lander’s influence cannot be measured purely by his restaurant ownership or his writing. His broader impact lies in the way he has changed conversations about hospitality.
- Highlighting Restaurateurs – By focusing on the people behind the business, he has shifted attention from chefs alone to the full spectrum of individuals who create dining experiences.
- Analysing Economics – His writing often explains the financial realities of running restaurants, making the industry more transparent.
- Encouraging Creativity – Through his books and columns, he has celebrated innovation, encouraging restaurateurs to experiment and evolve.
- Global Perspective – His coverage spans the world, reflecting the interconnectedness of food culture today.
Legacy and Continuing Relevance
Nick Lander remains highly relevant in an era where restaurants face both unprecedented challenges and opportunities. The COVID-19 pandemic, rising costs, and shifts in dining habits have made his insights into the business side of hospitality even more important.
His legacy is not only in the restaurants he has run or the books he has written but in the countless restaurateurs, chefs, and readers he has influenced. His voice continues to remind the industry that restaurants are not just about food—they are about people, stories, and connections.
Conclusion
Nick Lander’s career represents a rare combination of practical experience, literary skill, and cultural insight. From running L’Escargot to shaping public discourse through the Financial Times, he has built a reputation as one of the most authoritative voices in global dining.
His books, The Art of the Restaurateur and On the Menu, stand as essential texts for anyone interested in hospitality. His columns continue to shed light on the evolving restaurant world. And his partnership with Jancis Robinson adds another dimension to his influence.
